Thursday, February 5, 2009

Where I Find Myself

I've landed in Yemen, of all places. I'm happy for the chance to see a place I probably never would have put on a list of places to visit (both because it wouldn't have occured to me and because if it did occur to me, the security situation makes it difficult to get to see all the historic and beautiful sites).

Shades of Afghanistan, reflections of Morocco, flavors of Africa and reminders of Arabia
-Lonely Planet
Yemen does have it all: interesting architecture, a long coastline, really old heritage sites (mud skyscrappers that are still in use, though last year they suffered some damage after freak floods), mountains and terraced highlands, tribal culture, a beautiful island, the home of Sheba (mentioned in religious texts for Jews, Christians and Muslims). But threats from al-Qaeda, kidnappings by tribes trying to extort something from the government (often release of prisoners), and piracy make it a less-than-ideal spring break or honeymoon spot.






































Many of the men (who are quite short) wear galibayas with suitcoats and short, curved swords hanging from elaborate belts (this picture was stolen from someone else).






















Virtually all the women wear the long black cloaks and most cover their faces with just their eyes showing when on the street (which is more cultural than religious). The local women in our office wear the normal headscarf in the office, but veil their faces when they go to the street. Even women begging and young girls who were standing at stop lights to wash car windows in the hopes of getting some small tip from the drivers had their faces veiled. This is usual for me, since plenty of women in Egypt and other other Arabic countries I went to did not even wear the headscarf at all and very few covered their faces. Since I was friends with several women in Malaysia (Kenyan, Mauritian, and Indonesian) who fully veiled, I find it easier to smile at the fully veiled women here when I make eye contact.

I'm here working with the UN High Commissioner for Refugees office. I'll be interviewing refugees (probably mostly Iraqis but maybe also Somalis, Ethiopians or Eritreans) for resettlement (relocation to Canada, UK, Australia, etc but mostly USA). I went to the office yesterday---everyone was so nice. I'm anxious to start interviewing, but I think I may not be able to jump into it as fast as I would like because my counterpart is currently on leave until Feb 16 and seems like nobody really knows the status of anything I need to know except her...

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