Friday, March 27, 2009
Friday, February 27, 2009
Old Sana'a
I went to the Old City yesterday to check it out and buy some gifts...I took these three pictures and then, as luck would have it, my camera battery died! I will get some more pictures from my coworkers who were with me and upload those soon!
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Ilhumdolilah!
I finally have internet at home, I'm feeling somewhat better (cough and sore throat the past few days), I should start hammering out the interviews I'm here to do in full force soon, and I found the post office (just a block from my house).
Ahhhhhhh.
Yesterday was a down day but today there are so many reasons to be happier!
Ahhhhhhh.
Yesterday was a down day but today there are so many reasons to be happier!
Friday, February 13, 2009
Underneath
I attended a divorce party last night of a Yemeni colleague. Yep, that is unusual. None of the Yemeni women (and they were all women) I talked to there had been to one before. Waila’s husband wouldn’t agree to a divorce, so she had to take it to court and after a long battle managed to get her freedom—her cake had black roses and "I am alive" was written on it in frosting. There were probably about 30 people there—her Yemeni friends and coworkers and us foreigners from the office. The Yemeni women, who day to day wear the headscarf at least and many who veil their faces on the street also, got totally glamorized. Short, strappy dresses showing lots of cleavage, makeup, jewelry, curled hair. It took me a second or two to recognize a few women! I was totally underdressed (make that overdressed).
They sat on low cushiony couches, smoking cigarettes and sheesha (water pipe with flavored tobacco) and chewing qat. Qat is a mild drug that is a stimulant—apparently like drinking 5 cups of espresso. You chew on the leaf a bit and then leave it in your cheek (swallow your saliva but not the leaf and leave it in there for hours). Men can be seen chewing it most afternoons—sometimes with pouches of it so big that their cheeks protrude like chipmunks or squirrel (or a little kid with one of those ginormous gumballs or jawbreakers). When they talk, you can see the green bits—like a cow chewing its cud. The women were a lot daintier about it, but some had a cheek-full. No one was drinking alcohol (which Yemenis can’t legally buy) but the foreigners had been informed they could bring their own (no one did).
There was a woman there playing the oud (traditional instrument that looks a bit like a guitar but is more round) and singing. Some of the women danced a little, but most just sat around gossiping, smoking and chewing, all dressed up. I was at the qat party for almost four hours and it was still going strong when I caught a ride home from another Yemeni coworker. Everyone at the office is really so nice. (Juliette used to work at Lutheran Services of Iowa in Des Moines—the place I got the job in Dec but then didn’t have the budget to actually hire me. She’d gone to graduate school and then worked there with the director—the same person that had interviewed me. Small world!)
The singer thought at first that I was Egyptian, maybe because I had come with my Egyptian colleague. When she asked where I was from, I told them all that I was American and she cheered “Obama!” And everyone laughed. One of my first conversations with the driver at the office was about Obama and the prospect of change—all eyes are on Obama and the world seems to be holding their breath, hoping he’ll make a difference.
They sat on low cushiony couches, smoking cigarettes and sheesha (water pipe with flavored tobacco) and chewing qat. Qat is a mild drug that is a stimulant—apparently like drinking 5 cups of espresso. You chew on the leaf a bit and then leave it in your cheek (swallow your saliva but not the leaf and leave it in there for hours). Men can be seen chewing it most afternoons—sometimes with pouches of it so big that their cheeks protrude like chipmunks or squirrel (or a little kid with one of those ginormous gumballs or jawbreakers). When they talk, you can see the green bits—like a cow chewing its cud. The women were a lot daintier about it, but some had a cheek-full. No one was drinking alcohol (which Yemenis can’t legally buy) but the foreigners had been informed they could bring their own (no one did).
There was a woman there playing the oud (traditional instrument that looks a bit like a guitar but is more round) and singing. Some of the women danced a little, but most just sat around gossiping, smoking and chewing, all dressed up. I was at the qat party for almost four hours and it was still going strong when I caught a ride home from another Yemeni coworker. Everyone at the office is really so nice. (Juliette used to work at Lutheran Services of Iowa in Des Moines—the place I got the job in Dec but then didn’t have the budget to actually hire me. She’d gone to graduate school and then worked there with the director—the same person that had interviewed me. Small world!)
The singer thought at first that I was Egyptian, maybe because I had come with my Egyptian colleague. When she asked where I was from, I told them all that I was American and she cheered “Obama!” And everyone laughed. One of my first conversations with the driver at the office was about Obama and the prospect of change—all eyes are on Obama and the world seems to be holding their breath, hoping he’ll make a difference.
Two weeks down
Since I haven’t had internet at the house, I’ve been going to a coffee shop nearby that has wireless internet (practically daily). There’s a supermarket a block away (but I can’t seem to find the one thing I really need from a grocery store…;) ). I joined a gym (picture if you follow the link) that is a 5 minute walk from my place. Women’s hours are 9-2pm and then it’s mixed after that. My first time there I went in the evening and was the only woman there (though I saw one leaving as I came and another coming as I left), but no one bothered me. The place could certainly use a fan or two, but otherwise is nice.
I’ve been walking to and from work most days—it’s a 25 min walk in one direction. Yesterday I took a taxi for the first time and it costs a little less than $1. A woman brings lunch to the office, so I eat whatever she brings—usually either chicken/lamb/fish and rice with some salad—for about $3.
One of my favorite moments this week was walking home from work at the same time schoolgirls were walking home. Each group I passed smiled or said hello. They wear long olive green dress uniforms and most were young enough that they weren’t wearing the headscarf yet. At one point, three girls were headed in my direction, so I slowed my pace to walk with them as they practiced their English and I spoke some Arabic with them. They asked my name and where I was from. This is the first country in which I’ve lied about being American. These girls seemed harmless enough, but other people on the street could overhear, so I again said Canadian. They told me they were 10 and 11 and gasped when I told them my age. The whole scene brought a smile to my face.
My movements have really been pretty limited between my house, a three block radius (encompassing the café, supermarket and gym), and the route to and from work. I have yet to go to the Old City, a traditional part with the big market, but figure that I’ll have plenty of weekends to make it there since I doubt I’ll be traveling outside the city. Yesterday the weather was awful—sandy/dusty, like the harmattan in Ghana or the hamzeen in Egypt. Otherwise it’s been really nice. It’s sometimes warm in the sun in the mid afternoon when I’m wearing my long, black sweater, but still manageable. In the evenings it cools down quite a bit. The weather is really dry and the oxygen levels are low since it’s over a mile high (which apparently may be why I had a bit of trouble sleeping at first despite being really tired). When I start running back at home again, it means it’ll be a whole lot easier with all the extra oxygen ya’ll have!
I’ve been walking to and from work most days—it’s a 25 min walk in one direction. Yesterday I took a taxi for the first time and it costs a little less than $1. A woman brings lunch to the office, so I eat whatever she brings—usually either chicken/lamb/fish and rice with some salad—for about $3.
One of my favorite moments this week was walking home from work at the same time schoolgirls were walking home. Each group I passed smiled or said hello. They wear long olive green dress uniforms and most were young enough that they weren’t wearing the headscarf yet. At one point, three girls were headed in my direction, so I slowed my pace to walk with them as they practiced their English and I spoke some Arabic with them. They asked my name and where I was from. This is the first country in which I’ve lied about being American. These girls seemed harmless enough, but other people on the street could overhear, so I again said Canadian. They told me they were 10 and 11 and gasped when I told them my age. The whole scene brought a smile to my face.
My movements have really been pretty limited between my house, a three block radius (encompassing the café, supermarket and gym), and the route to and from work. I have yet to go to the Old City, a traditional part with the big market, but figure that I’ll have plenty of weekends to make it there since I doubt I’ll be traveling outside the city. Yesterday the weather was awful—sandy/dusty, like the harmattan in Ghana or the hamzeen in Egypt. Otherwise it’s been really nice. It’s sometimes warm in the sun in the mid afternoon when I’m wearing my long, black sweater, but still manageable. In the evenings it cools down quite a bit. The weather is really dry and the oxygen levels are low since it’s over a mile high (which apparently may be why I had a bit of trouble sleeping at first despite being really tired). When I start running back at home again, it means it’ll be a whole lot easier with all the extra oxygen ya’ll have!
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
The Office
This is the office I'm currently using, but will be displaced once the current resident of the desk returns from vacation next week. It's so nice with all the flowers and stained glass!
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Apartment!
I still haven't gotten the video uploaded, so here are some pictures instead. No internet at home yet---at a nearby coffee shop with wireless! The pictures aren't really in a logical order (well, they are kind of in a backwards logical order and it's a pain to fix it).
You walk in and are immediately in the dining room. To the left is the living room. Go through dining room to get to the hallway. Immediately to your right is the kitchen. The first room to the left is the 'study.' Then two bedrooms straight ahead and the bathroom to the right. I am currently in the right-hand bedroom but considering relocating because it only has windows that are like in the middle of the building (atrium kind of thing so not good light) and I like the drawer/closet system better there. It has two double beds pushed together instead, but that doesn't really matter to me.
This is the first time I've lived alone---and maybe probably the last?!. I had a single senior year, but that doesn't really count. I thought I wouldn't like it, but I think I'll survive. My supervisor is my next door neighbor and an fun Egyptian coworker is upstairs. So it might be easy enough to socialize.
And I forgot to mention---I have a cleaner again (after having one in Egypt, Ghana and Costa Rica). The next person I live with better be ready for that! ; )
Washing machine, microwave, gas stove (I hate using matches for that!)
View from the window
2nd bedroom I might move into
Bedroom
Study
Dining room/first room you enter
Living room (notice stained glass windows---they're everywhere!)
Hallway that helps conceptualize. Left is study, straight ahead are two bedrooms, right is bathroom, and immediately to my right kitchen.
You walk in and are immediately in the dining room. To the left is the living room. Go through dining room to get to the hallway. Immediately to your right is the kitchen. The first room to the left is the 'study.' Then two bedrooms straight ahead and the bathroom to the right. I am currently in the right-hand bedroom but considering relocating because it only has windows that are like in the middle of the building (atrium kind of thing so not good light) and I like the drawer/closet system better there. It has two double beds pushed together instead, but that doesn't really matter to me.
This is the first time I've lived alone---and maybe probably the last?!. I had a single senior year, but that doesn't really count. I thought I wouldn't like it, but I think I'll survive. My supervisor is my next door neighbor and an fun Egyptian coworker is upstairs. So it might be easy enough to socialize.
And I forgot to mention---I have a cleaner again (after having one in Egypt, Ghana and Costa Rica). The next person I live with better be ready for that! ; )
Washing machine, microwave, gas stove (I hate using matches for that!)
View from the window
2nd bedroom I might move into
Bedroom
Study
Dining room/first room you enter
Living room (notice stained glass windows---they're everywhere!)
Hallway that helps conceptualize. Left is study, straight ahead are two bedrooms, right is bathroom, and immediately to my right kitchen.
Intentions
I moved into my apartment last night and took a video of it to post for you...but I can't get it to upload....anyone have any tips? It may be because of restrictions or lack of appropriate programs from this office computer. I will try it again from my laptop when I get internet at home (may take a few days--if I'm lucky).
More soon!
More soon!
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Where I Find Myself
I've landed in Yemen, of all places. I'm happy for the chance to see a place I probably never would have put on a list of places to visit (both because it wouldn't have occured to me and because if it did occur to me, the security situation makes it difficult to get to see all the historic and beautiful sites).
Shades of Afghanistan, reflections of Morocco, flavors of Africa and reminders of Arabia
-Lonely Planet
-Lonely Planet
Yemen does have it all: interesting architecture, a long coastline, really old heritage sites (mud skyscrappers that are still in use, though last year they suffered some damage after freak floods), mountains and terraced highlands, tribal culture, a beautiful island, the home of Sheba (mentioned in religious texts for Jews, Christians and Muslims). But threats from al-Qaeda, kidnappings by tribes trying to extort something from the government (often release of prisoners), and piracy make it a less-than-ideal spring break or honeymoon spot.
Many of the men (who are quite short) wear galibayas with suitcoats and short, curved swords hanging from elaborate belts (this picture was stolen from someone else).
Virtually all the women wear the long black cloaks and most cover their faces with just their eyes showing when on the street (which is more cultural than religious). The local women in our office wear the normal headscarf in the office, but veil their faces when they go to the street. Even women begging and young girls who were standing at stop lights to wash car windows in the hopes of getting some small tip from the drivers had their faces veiled. This is usual for me, since plenty of women in Egypt and other other Arabic countries I went to did not even wear the headscarf at all and very few covered their faces. Since I was friends with several women in Malaysia (Kenyan, Mauritian, and Indonesian) who fully veiled, I find it easier to smile at the fully veiled women here when I make eye contact.
I'm here working with the UN High Commissioner for Refugees office. I'll be interviewing refugees (probably mostly Iraqis but maybe also Somalis, Ethiopians or Eritreans) for resettlement (relocation to Canada, UK, Australia, etc but mostly USA). I went to the office yesterday---everyone was so nice. I'm anxious to start interviewing, but I think I may not be able to jump into it as fast as I would like because my counterpart is currently on leave until Feb 16 and seems like nobody really knows the status of anything I need to know except her...
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)